Xieng Khouang & the Plain of Jars, Laos
The Plain of Jars is one of Southeast Asia’s most mysterious and powerful places — a landscape of ancient stone jars scattered across green plateaus and misty hills. Beyond its archaeological intrigue, the region tells a story of resilience, from Iron Age rituals to the scars of war and the warmth of its people today.
Why go there
Thousands of massive stone jars, carved from sandstone between 500 BCE and 500 CE, are spread across the plains near Phonsavan. They are believed to have been used in burial rituals, making this one of the most fascinating archaeological sites in Southeast Asia. Today, visitors can explore over 2,100 jars across the main fields (Sites 1–3), set among rice paddies and small villages. The region is also home to Hmong, Khmu, and Lao communities who maintain rich traditions and warm hospitality. A journey here blends mystery, memory, and meaningful connection.
How to get there
- By air: Flights (when available) to Xieng Khouang Airport (XKH), about 10–15 minutes from Phonsavan town.
- By road:
- Luang Prabang → Phonsavan: 6–8 hours through mountain roads and scenic views.
- Vang Vieng → Phonsavan: 5–6 hours.
- Vientiane → Phonsavan: 7–9 hours.
⚠️ No train service. Roads can be slow during the rainy season — start early and travel with patience.
Getting around
- Motorbike rental: Best for exploring jar sites and nearby villages.
- Tuk-tuk hire: Ideal for short trips or groups.
- Private car or guided tour: Comfortable and informative if you prefer context.
- Bicycles: Good for short distances; not recommended for far sites.
Where to stay (Phonsavan base)
Phonsavan is the provincial capital and best base for visiting the Plain of Jars. It’s a small but welcoming town with a growing choice of lodges and guesthouses.
- High: Pukyo Bed & Breakfast – Owner-run boutique stay (5 rooms), cozy atmosphere, excellent hosting, close to Jar Site 1 and airport.
- Medium: The Hillside Residence – Clean, calm rooms with balconies and friendly service, easy access to tours and town.
- Budget: Anoulack Khen Lao Hotel – Central location, reliable budget option with simple rooms, Wi-Fi, and restaurant.
- Alternative mid/high: Vansana Plain of Jars Hotel – Classic 3-star stay with garden setting and mountain views.
Where to eat & drink
- Bombie’s Restaurant: Friendly atmosphere, Lao, Thai, and Western menu.
- Cranky-T Café & Bar: Good coffee, cocktails, and relaxed food.
- Sala Phonesavanh Café & Restaurant: Local dishes in a cozy café setting.
- Sa Nga Restaurant: Lao, Thai, and Chinese dishes; near the post office.
- Phonekeo Restaurant: Popular for quick, local meals.
- Simmaly Restaurant: Local favorite among residents and travelers alike.
What to do
- Plain of Jars Sites 1, 2 & 3:
- Site 1: The largest and easiest to visit.
- Sites 2 & 3: Quieter, with scenic views and fewer visitors.
- UXO Lao Visitor Center: Learn about the region’s wartime history and ongoing bomb clearance. Displays include recovered ordnance, survivor stories, and short films. Also visit the War Memorial and crater sites — solemn reminders of resilience and recovery.
- Cultural & Scenic Sites: Muang Khoun (ancient royal capital), Ban Napia (“Spoon Village” recycling war metal into souvenirs), Hot Springs (Muang Kham or Ban Nam Un).
Practical tips
- Safety first: Stay on marked paths at jar sites — unexploded ordnance still exists in some areas.
- Weather: Cool at night year-round — bring a light jacket.
- Cash: ATMs available in town; signal may fade in remote areas.
- Respect: Do not climb on the jars; drones only where permitted.
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